Aside from the rain, cold and occasional cat call my holiday in Istanbul was fabulous! Seriously, a lot of people expressed concern that I was traveling there alone but I had very few problems. Maybe it was because it was winter or the spirit of Ramadan, I don’t really know.
Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the Basilica Cistern are impressive must-see places but more than anything I enjoyed the people, culture, and food.
There are tons of interesting restaurants and not only Turkish ones. A couple stand out. One was a place called Furreyya, near the Galata Tower where I had hamsi (Black Sea anchovies). And the other was on the Asian side in Kadikoy at a place called, Ciya, which has been called “Anatolian comfort food” by the NYT. The chef incorporates local produce in interesting and inventive ways: delish!
One night we saw this gypsy band, Selim Sessler at a casual wine bar, Badehane in Beyoglu, a bohemian albeit slightly gentrified neighborhood in Karikoy. Earlier in the day I found this great record store, Lale Plak. They were very helpful and made great recommendations! I picked up Selim Sessler and Ceza (rap). I also picked up a couple of David Byrne recommendations, Sezen Aksu (pop diva) & Baris Manco (Anatolian psychedelic funk). Music is a welcome return to my life since my ipod died 3 months ago.
Doing that and going to Kadikoy (Asian side) were highlights of my holiday. Actually it was all great: taking a ferry ride up the Bosphorus, getting completely lost in the Grand Bazaar and being harragued by the salesmen (yes, it was fun), agonizing over the perfect carpet, buying fruits, nuts, and lokum at the spice market, people watching while eating fish bread for 4 lira (about 3 USD) from the garishly decorated boats near the Galata Bridge, early morning jogs along the Sea of Marmara, waking up to the call to prayer (my hotel was next to a small mosque). I also went to Cagalogu Hamami in the Sultanhamet. It is one of the oldest and most beautiful hamams in the city. It’s rated as one of the 1000 things to see before you die: 1 down, 999 to go!
It was a really great experience.
There was one very nursey think I am proud to say that I did. I went to the Selimiye Barracks in Uskandur to the Florence Nightingale Museum. This is where she worked with British soldiers during the Crimean War (1853-1856). The Turkish military converted the barracks into a hospital for British soldiers. The building itself was beautiful: when it was originally built in 1800 by Sultan Selim III they didn’t excavate the land but would build into it, creating different levels at different points. The view from where she worked, at the top tower from the north end has an incredible view of the European and Asian sides of the city.
Because it was December there were few tourists. I would like to someday return when the weather is warm and go to Prince Islands. Such a great place to spend holiday!
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Turkey is one of the leading tourist destination. May, June and July is the best time to visit Turkey. This is the only season when you can see lots of tourist all around. Turkish bath is the major attraction over here.
ReplyDeleteCheap Turkey Holiday
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Just catching up with your blog-o-la. I 'm so envious - would love to visit Turkey. Glad to see that you had some great Anchovies while you there - I assume they were not from a can this time though!
ReplyDeleteSorry you can't make it to our potato Party - i thought you'd make a special trip! haha. Cant wait to see you as soon as you return