georgia on my mind

Wish me luck in Paris!

2010-04-04T10:43:00.001-07:00

After 200 days of training and 637 miles in 4 countries and 1 republic I hope that I am ready for the marathon scheduled in one week from today. It has been an exciting adventure in Sukhum but my time here is quickly coming to a close. Thank you to everyone who has sponsored me in support of MSF. Next Sunday when I run in the marathon I will set my intention for all of my patients who have struggled with and those who lost the battle against DR-TB. It is an awful and devastating disease. Hopefully, one day soon the diagnostics and drugs will improve and this disease will be eradicated once and for all.

Foodie Scooter Club anyone?

2010-03-17T11:22:00.000-07:00

Just wondering if anyone but myself would be interested in starting a foodie scooter club in the city. . .You know, we would plan trips to interesting (high brow/ divey) restaurants to the 5 boroughs and then talk about the experience. Sounds like a dream to me. . .
Are there other people out there who share my love of good food as well as scooting around the city?

Happy St Patricks Day!!

2010-03-17T11:14:00.000-07:00

Hope the parade in the city was a blast (not that I ever go mind you but still it is nice to observe that SPD was today).

Only 25 Days left before the Paris marathon! I truly hope that I am ready! This weekend I have my final and longest run yet, after that I begin the taper to the race. . . I think I can I think I can.
Merci beaucoup to all those people sponsored me in this effort! I will do my best to make it count!!!

Yerevan, Armenia

2010-03-15T21:21:00.000-07:00

This is a picture, courtesy of Paul from admin, of Mt. Ararat (and lil' Ararat) in Yerevan, Armenia. Isn’t it beautiful? I went there for a 2-day conference at the end of February. This area of the world is really fascinating: culturally, geopolitically, & architecturally (in a sovietic aesthetic sorta way). I even managed to get in a run up the Cascades (500+ steps!!) of the brand new Cafesjian Center for the Arts. The best part was getting to see Ferdinando Botero statues on the lawn- I LOVE LOVE LOVE BOTERO!! But then later that afternoon, any benefit from running was negated when I bought and promtly inhaled an ungodly amount of dried fruits with nuts dipped in chocolate from the aproposly named candy store, Grand Candy.
For some reason former soviet countries like sword wielding amazon statues overlooking their major cities. Apparently, it symbolizes the protective mother, Armenia has theirs as does Georgia (however, Queen Tamara, in Tbilisi, has a glass of wine in her hand which, according to my Georgian companions is an obvious indicator that they are a more hospitable people than their neighgbors to the south east). I also picked up some famous Armenian cognac, which hands down is superior to the Georgian variety (sorry Tiniko and Dali but you have the market on wine in these parts)! The last night there, after dozens of presentations and debating issues ad nauseum we had a delightful dinner celebration at a traditional Armenian restaurant where the alcohol flowed freely, the BBQ was outstanding, and we all danced til the wee hours of the morning.
On the return trip we stopped at Lake Sevan, one of the largest high-altitude lakes in the world..Ah, the Caucasus!! What a fantastic place and incredible people.

Marathon Fundraising

2010-01-15T01:59:00.000-08:00

How can you run 26.2 miles (42 kilometers) without some greater purpose you ask? I have been wondering the same. Naturally I have chosen to set up a fund raising account with MSF.

This probably won’t surprise anyone but just in case you are wondering why you should give your hard earned money to them rather than some other cause, I will tell you . . .

MSF is one of the top actors in addressing the global medical needs of the world, especially in emergency situations. When the earthquake hit Port au Prince on Jan 12, MSF sent an additional 70 volunteers within 48 hours to their existing project of 300 employees. Their ability to mobilize and respond quickly to situations is due to support of individuals who recognize and believe in what they are doing.

As a volunteer I can personally attest to the importance of the work that MSF is doing.

If you can, please donate to this cause! (Of course, it is tax deductible)

www.firstgiving.com/jenniferjennings1

Big thanks!

Holiday in Turkey

2010-01-01T23:03:00.001-08:00

Aside from the rain, cold and occasional cat call my holiday in Istanbul was fabulous! Seriously, a lot of people expressed concern that I was traveling there alone but I had very few problems. Maybe it was because it was winter or the spirit of Ramadan, I don’t really know.
Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the Basilica Cistern are impressive must-see places but more than anything I enjoyed the people, culture, and food.
There are tons of interesting restaurants and not only Turkish ones. A couple stand out. One was a place called Furreyya, near the Galata Tower where I had hamsi (Black Sea anchovies). And the other was on the Asian side in Kadikoy at a place called, Ciya, which has been called “Anatolian comfort food” by the NYT. The chef incorporates local produce in interesting and inventive ways: delish!
One night we saw this gypsy band, Selim Sessler at a casual wine bar, Badehane in Beyoglu, a bohemian albeit slightly gentrified neighborhood in Karikoy. Earlier in the day I found this great record store, Lale Plak. They were very helpful and made great recommendations! I picked up Selim Sessler and Ceza (rap). I also picked up a couple of David Byrne recommendations, Sezen Aksu (pop diva) & Baris Manco (Anatolian psychedelic funk). Music is a welcome return to my life since my ipod died 3 months ago.
Doing that and going to Kadikoy (Asian side) were highlights of my holiday. Actually it was all great: taking a ferry ride up the Bosphorus, getting completely lost in the Grand Bazaar and being harragued by the salesmen (yes, it was fun), agonizing over the perfect carpet, buying fruits, nuts, and lokum at the spice market, people watching while eating fish bread for 4 lira (about 3 USD) from the garishly decorated boats near the Galata Bridge, early morning jogs along the Sea of Marmara, waking up to the call to prayer (my hotel was next to a small mosque). I also went to Cagalogu Hamami in the Sultanhamet. It is one of the oldest and most beautiful hamams in the city. It’s rated as one of the 1000 things to see before you die: 1 down, 999 to go!
It was a really great experience.
There was one very nursey think I am proud to say that I did. I went to the Selimiye Barracks in Uskandur to the Florence Nightingale Museum. This is where she worked with British soldiers during the Crimean War (1853-1856). The Turkish military converted the barracks into a hospital for British soldiers. The building itself was beautiful: when it was originally built in 1800 by Sultan Selim III they didn’t excavate the land but would build into it, creating different levels at different points. The view from where she worked, at the top tower from the north end has an incredible view of the European and Asian sides of the city.
Because it was December there were few tourists. I would like to someday return when the weather is warm and go to Prince Islands. Such a great place to spend holiday!

The little engine that could

2010-01-01T22:56:00.000-08:00

I can’t believe I’ve been in Abkhazia for nearly 4 months! This means that I have less than 3 months left in the field.
It also means I only have 99 days left to prepare for the Paris marathon!
Apparently, I should be wearing a heart rate monitor! The good news is I only need 12 weeks to train.
Our new field coordinator, a former runner who has trained people for marathons informed me of this. She ran the Paris marathon in less than 3½ hours!
If I do it in sub-four I will be more than satisfied. She said that when you’re training your resting heart rate will noticeably decrease. Hers went from 60 to around 47. Mine has been consistent at 60 even though I have been on a progressive running schedule for the past 3 months. This is how I know I am not training properly.

I have to remember the little engine that could: I think I can, I think I can!!!

2009-12-10T02:15:00.000-08:00

eurasia inspired haikus

2009-12-10T00:16:00.000-08:00

Militia stands guard
No border crossing today-
The people must vote!

Painstakingly slow
Sveta cooks the hominy,
Puts the cheese inside

Tick, tick, ticking clock,
Passing time with War & Peace-
Please pick up your phone!

Dogs don't get TB

2009-12-02T07:41:00.000-08:00

What do babies crying, barking dogs and gunshots have in common?
They are things I am frequently awakened by in the middle of the night! Don’t worry the guns are not a threat. Think looney tunes a la Yosemite Sam’s wild west versus bombs over Baghdad and you have a good idea of the situation here. Practically everyone owns a gun and employs it as a sort of party favor whistle. I am only mentioning this out of annoyance from sleep deprivation. And because I am missing 'my solitude of Brooklyn'.

One very cool albeit unexpected thing I discovered is a bowling alley. This is one thing I never thought I would find walking along the boardwalk on the Black Sea in the Republic of Abkhazia. Actually, I never imagined that I would be walking along the boardwalk on the Black Sea in the Republic of Abkhazia.

Related to work: The Ministry of Internal Affairs has given the green light to ‘make education’ in the prison. There are some serious misconceptions about TB here.
Since October I have been having a support group weekly in the hospital and monthly at one of our ambulatory points.

Here is an excerpt of a few things I have heard:

“Dogs can’t get TB so is it true that if I eat a dog I can be cured of TB?”

“I heard that if you take a newborn puppy and feed it only fresh cows milk for several weeks then cook it and eat it, you will be cured. Is that true?”

“No, that’s not true. Monkeys don’t get AIDS but you don’t see people eating them to cure them of AIDS do you?”

“Anyway, if that were true I’d been cured years ago cause I’ve eaten 2 dogs already and I’m still sick”

“If UV light kills the bacilli then why don’t they just cut your chest open and lay you out in the sun to cure you?”

“Or cut your chest open and pour benzene on your lungs to kill it?”

These are a few things that I have heard.
Very uninformed indeed.

So far, there is not much discussion about the upcoming presidential election set for December 12. I think no news is good news.

The Supra

2009-12-02T07:30:00.000-08:00

I don’t know how to respond except to say that I am sorry. Things have been a bit hectic in the field but still I have no excuse for, as Brooke accurately put it, ‘blog neglect’. So to make it up to you I will make 2 entries today.

I am writing from the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi, where I have been for the past 4 days to get a Russian visa. Today, I leave for Zugdidi for a few days to work in the field, then back to Sukhum for a couple more days and on the 12th I leave for one week holiday in Istanbul!
Istanbul’s not Constantinople, now it’s Istanbul not Constantinople, been a long time gone, Constantinople, why did Constantinople get the works? That’s nobody’s business but the Turks! Oh, sorry, I become possessed with They Might Be Giants every time. . .Which reminds me, any recommendations on what to do while I am there? Would be great to know interesting unusual recs made outside Lonely Planet.

I can’t believe I have been here nearly 3 months! And only 130 days ‘til the Paris marathon?! Training is thus far going according to schedule; Ran 14 miles for first time in the other day.

Recently I had a most interesting experience. I attended a supra, which is a traditional Georgian celebration involving an abundance of food, wine, and tchatcha (homemade grape vodka aka moonshine). The head of the table, or toastmaster, is known as the tamada. The tamada on this occasion was a surgeon working in a remote area near Telavi, which is on the northeastern border of Georgia near to Chechnya. He is providing surgeries for several hundred Chechens. He himself Chechen, came to Georgia to aid refugees who fled from the conflict with Russia. We were fortunate enough to tour his hospital and surgical theater, which was nothing short of amazing. The dilapidated facility in which he works was built during soviet times and is largely abandoned but he manages to perform extensive surgeries with very limited resources. It was a nice reminder of why I am doing this kind of work and of the possibilities for what more can be done. Truly an inspiring individual.

In the future I will do my best to blog more frequently, if you promise to send the latest updates and gossip in your world.

Kisses!

wipe out

2009-10-27T10:24:00.001-07:00

took a little spill the other day while i was running. thought i'd share. . .

and a few other pics that i have taken in my new home.

enjoy!!

lost in rooskeey

2009-10-12T20:46:00.000-07:00

I would like to talk about my translator for a minute. She is young, energetic, and tres, tres helpful. A real girl Friday.
Except when she interchanges Russian & English in her translations.
It was Monday morning and we are in the hospital doing rounds on the patients. So we go into a room and I ask the usual questions: how do you feel, how are you sleeping, how's your appetite, blah, blah, blah. She translates verbatim what is being said. I ask for clarification about something and she responds ‘duh’. Again I ask what the patient means and she says ‘duh, duh’. We move onto the next patient and the same scenario repeats itself. This continues throughout the day.
Wha? Seriously?
Unbelievable! And she is saying it without a hint of malice in her tone or facial expression.
After we leave the hospital I ask her if I have done something to offend her as I don’t understand the sarcasm. She looks at me quizzically and says, “Jennifer, I am not being sarcastic, I was saying da. . . Da is Russian for ‘yes’! I was confirming what you were asking about the patient”.
OOHHHH.
Those Russian lessons didn't arrive a minute too soon.

the kiss movement

2009-09-27T05:33:00.000-07:00

I have finally made it to Sukhum! How does one get there you might ask?
It is quite easy actually. You transfer midway between GA and ABH by what is called 'the kiss movement'. A driver from Ga side meets a driver from Abh side on the middle of a bridge and you transfer everything into the opposite cruiser and off you go! On Friday I met my team and went to the TB hospital for the first time. My job is going to be interesting and challenging. . .

On another note, I have been trying the Abkhazian (or is it Abkhaz?) cuisine. On Friday night me and some of the other expats went out to eat at a restaurant overlooking the Black Sea. We had kachapuri (cheese impregnanted bread), shashlyk (Russian style kebabas), and a bottle of Abkhazian wine- sorry to disappoint, no vodka or cognac this time. It was very nice but the kachapuri was a little too dense for my taste. The wine was a white variety and not too bad. The shashlyk was delish.

The on Saturday, 2 expats and myself took an excursion to the Novy Afon Cave and Afon Monastery. We did not go inside the monastery, however, we did tour the cave which was really super cool (with the exception of Kenny G playing to demonstrate the amazing acoustics). We then trecked further north in our massive Land Cruiser to the National Park and mountain lake of Ritza. The water is glacier fed so it is beautiful and pristine. People were filling their water bottles at the waterfall. Tres magnifique!

Today I was able to get in a 7 miler and score some matsoni (yummy homemade yogurt) and lavash (artisan bread) at the market before a torrential down pour that left us without Aljazeera tv- or any tv for that matter. Also the rain took the water from the pipes in the house. Rain rain everywhere, except where it is needed.

Did I mention that everything grows, no fluorishes here? Pomegranate, citrus- tangerines, oranges, lemons, limes, grapes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumber, figs, walnuts, herbs- cilantro, basil, hazelnuts. You name it it grows!

Wednesday is victory day here in the big A. I have been told it is a huge celebration with fireworks and such- will get back to you on what the 'and such' means exactly. If it is not a security issue I am going with one of the other expats to celebrate with the locals.
Cognac anyone?

General information: Abkhazia

2009-09-24T02:42:00.000-07:00

Abkhazia is one of two breakaway regions of Georgia.
It is approximately 8,600 km2 and is situated in the north-western corner of Georgia with the Black Sea to the south-west and the Caucasus mountains and Russia to the north-east. Abkhazia has been fighting for independence from Georgia since the collapse of the USSR in 1991. Abkhazia claimed their independence in 1994 after a 13-month war lasting from 1992 to 1993. Internationally this is recognized by Russia, Nicaragua, and as of 2 weeks ago, Venezuela. An economic embargo is in effect making Abkhazia almost totally isolated with the exception of Russia which maintains a border crossing.

In 1991, the population in Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia was 550,000. In 2005 it was estimated at 200,000. Today, there are even fewer people living in the area.

Major languages spoken: Russian, Georgian, and Abkhaz
Major religions: Christianity, Islam
According to MOH estimates approximately 50% of the population are unemployed though this may be a modest estimate.
Natural resources: agricultural, primarily citrus fruits, tobacco, tea, timber; some coal, hydroelectric power

In 1996, MSF started their support in Abkhazia for regular tuberculosis and in 2001 a multi-drug resistant tuberculosis (MDR-TB) project was opened. It’s in this context that I will be working for the next 6.5 months as the adherence coordinator in Sukhumi. Currently, there are less than 50 people enrolled in this program. The treatment of MDR-TB is between 21 to 24 months, has many and severe medication side effects and requires DOT (direct observed therapy) for the duration of treatment which means patients are required to come into an ambulatory point 1-2 times per day 6 days per week. Yep, that's right twice daily 6 days per week for 2 years! Understandably, adherence with treatment is very difficult.

running in former soviet union (FSU)

2009-09-23T07:59:00.000-07:00

5 mile run in zugdidi.
people: 2 (3 counting the fisherman who directed me back on track)
cows: 15
pigs: 8
chickens: 27
other hooved beasts: 3
number of gates to pass in order to prevent said beasts from escaping: 3
cars: 2

5 mile run in nyc along west side highway.
people: min. 200 to 300
cows, pigs, chickens, and other hooved beasts: 0
gates to pass: 0, not including the metaphorical ones
cars: several hundred

number of days until the PARIS marathon: 200
number of weeks to prepare: 28

this is going to be a bit of an adjustment.

Pre-trip entry: Friday 09/04

2009-09-04T14:33:00.000-07:00

"Be the change you wish to see in the world"

- Mahatma Gandhi